Walk into Tornado and the dim lighting wraps around you like a familiar coat. Candles flicker in hobnail glass holders while bartenders work their craft behind dark wood. The jukebox against the back wall plays softly, and white leather booths create intimate pockets throughout the space. A server appears with the signature welcome—raw vegetables standing in a cup of ice, an oddity that somehow fits perfectly here.

The French onion soup arrives in its traditional handled crock, the cheese cap melted and browned to perfection. Below, rich broth mingles with tender onions in a way that suggests the kitchen knows exactly what they're doing. The wedge salad follows, a thick slab of iceberg that provides cool contrast to what's coming.

Watch the dining room as plates emerge from the kitchen. The filet lands on the table, its surface crispy and browned, the interior revealing perfect doneness when cut. Those legendary hash browns alongside could convert any seafood lover—golden, crispy, and worth every bit of their reputation. The New York strip at the next table draws appreciative nods, while massive portions of walleye and duck breast prove the kitchen doesn't hold back on anything.

The walleye that many crave sits untouched tonight, victims choosing steak instead just to experience those hash browns with a good Cabernet. The cognac mushroom cream sauce pools perfectly around the beef, though some still pine for the discontinued peppercorn brandy sauce of years past. Even the asparagus gets special treatment, dressed in a tangy-sweet sauce that elevates the simple vegetable.

An Old Fashioned arrives in a square-based rocks glass, mixed with the confidence of bartenders who've been doing this for decades. The mid-century modern cocktail provides a lighter option, while shrimp cocktail offers a classic start for those who prefer tradition. Service moves with practiced efficiency—prompt, professional, and infused with that particular Midwest friendliness that never feels forced.

Desserts maintain the high standard, though at this point most diners struggle to find room. The private bar downstairs offers a more intimate setting, complete with those white booths and vintage touches that make Tornado feel less like a restaurant and more like a perfectly preserved moment in Wisconsin dining history.

The occasional misstep appears—an overdone steak here, dry walleye there—but these prove rare exceptions in an otherwise exceptional operation. For seafood purists, other options might excel, but for the complete supper club experience, Tornado delivers on every promise. This isn't just dinner; it's an institution operating at the top of its game.