Walk into The Del-Bar and the holiday decorations catch your eye first, then the warm glow from the dim lighting settles you right into place. Mid-century touches remain throughout the dining room, where booths fill up fast with couples celebrating milestones and families gathering for special occasions.

The French onion soup arrives in a glazed crock, its melted cheese cap blistered and browned from the broiler. Break through that crust and steam escapes from the rich broth below. At the next table, oysters on the half shell glisten on crushed ice, fresh horseradish mounded in the center of the metal platter.

Watch the kitchen door swing open as servers carry out perfectly timed plates. A petite filet lands at one table, marrow butter pooling on top. The rib eye at another booth shows perfect grill marks, whether you order the 14-ounce or go all in with the 20-ounce bone-in version. Each steak arrives exactly as ordered, from medium-rare centers to well-done edges.

The walleye comes out golden and crispy, competing with any fish fry in the state. Sea bass appears with steamed asparagus and smashed cauliflower that converts even vegetable skeptics. Salmon benefits from a generous coating of béarnaise sauce that elevates the entire plate.

Sides deserve attention here. The garlic mashed potatoes carry enough flavor to stand alone, while loaded baked potatoes arrive properly dressed. Even the bread basket surprises with cranberry accents. Skip the basic salad bar and upgrade to one of the specialty salads - the extra cost pays off.

Service maintains the kind of polish that makes you want to slow down and savor the evening. Servers know their menu, make solid recommendations, and time each course perfectly. Happy hour at the bar offers 25% off cocktails, though the Old Fashioneds could use some work to match the excellence found elsewhere.

Desserts and spiked coffees provide a proper finish, with the salted caramel espresso martini earning particular praise. Yes, the prices reflect the quality and location, but The Del-Bar remains an institution for good reason. Plan ahead, be prepared for popularity on weekends, and settle in for the kind of meal that reminds you why Wisconsin supper clubs endure.