Walk into Donny's Glidden Lodge and the first thing that strikes you isn't the menu or the host stand—it's the way the dining room seems to float above the water, windows stretching around the space like a panoramic postcard of Sturgeon Bay. During daylight hours, the view commands attention. After dark, the reflections in the glass create their own kind of theater.

The bar draws early arrivals who know the drill. Watch the bartender build an Old Fashioned in those heavy-bottom faceted glasses, the amber liquid catching light as ice settles. The cocktails earn their reputation here, though some nights they shine brighter than others. At 8:30 on a Saturday, the room hums with conversation and the clink of silverware on oval plates.

Prime rib night brings its own choreography. The thick slabs arrive on ridged dinner plates, each cut revealing how the evening's timing plays out. Come early for rare or medium-rare; arrive later and watch the pink disappear as the night progresses. Even when cooked beyond preference, the beef maintains its appeal—tender and well-seasoned, if not quite what was ordered.

The walleye tells a more consistent story. That panko coating arrives crispy and golden, protecting the delicate fish beneath. It's the kind of preparation that respects the ingredient rather than masking it. Other seafood options range from sweet lobster tails with drawn butter to salmon that occasionally arrives with unwanted garnish—a reminder that even waterfront views can't guarantee perfection in the kitchen.

Sides occupy a supporting role here, sometimes successfully. The broccoli cheddar soup shows up rich and satisfying, while vegetable medleys and rice pilaf do their job without demanding attention. Baked potatoes appear as expected, dressed in ranch or blue cheese, solid players in a traditional lineup that could use some fresh thinking.

The chocolate layer cake changes the narrative at meal's end. Those moist layers separated by airy mousse, the whole thing crowned with fudge frosting and a scatter of nuts—it's the kind of dessert that makes you slow down, savor, remember why you came. The service maintains its steady professionalism throughout, even when water glasses overflow onto silverware.

Donny's Glidden Lodge occupies that particular space where setting and substance don't quite align. The view delivers consistently, the cocktails mostly hit their marks, and certain dishes—that walleye, the chocolate cake—show what the kitchen can achieve. But with prime rib timing issues, occasional quality lapses, and sides that feel like afterthoughts, the experience doesn't quite match the promise of those stunning water views.

Still, there's something about watching the sun set over Sturgeon Bay through those windows, an Old Fashioned in hand, waiting for your walleye to arrive. In those moments, the imperfections fade into the background, and you understand why people keep coming back—for the view, yes, but also for those flashes when everything comes together, even if they don't happen quite often enough.