Walk into Delaney's just across from Schwoegler's bowling alley, and the host stand greets you under an awning that promises what's delivered inside—a genuine steakhouse experience. The dining room splits into smaller compartments, each one creating its own cozy pocket where conversations stay private and the atmosphere remains intimate.

The kitchen sends out that seafood bisque everyone talks about, and you understand why immediately. Steam rises from the wide-rim bowl, carrying the scent of fresh shellfish. Each spoonful delivers chunks of crab and other seafood swimming in a rich base that tastes like the ocean concentrated into cream.

Watch the prime rib arrive on its oval metal platter, edges browned and interior showing that perfect pink gradient. The sizzle continues even as the server sets it down. Those thick crab cakes come out golden, crispy on the outside yet tender within, tasting of pure crab with minimal filler.

The bar pours a proper old fashioned into those classic faceted glasses, the amber liquid catching light through the multi-panel sides. Service flows with the precision of a well-rehearsed performance—attentive without hovering, professional without being stiff.

Some elements could use attention. The vegetables arrive simply steamed, lacking the care shown to the proteins. Hash browns that should crunch disappoint with a texture too close to instant. The rice under certain dishes tastes bland, more afterthought than complement.

But order that New York strip and witness what this kitchen does best. The char forms a crust that gives way to tender beef, cooked exactly to temperature. Add the creamed corn that regulars insist upon, and you have the kind of meal that defines a proper steakhouse.

Delaney's knows what it is—a place for pork chops and steaks, for lobster and prime rib. In the Madison area's steakhouse landscape, this remains a destination where consistency meets quality, even if the sides could benefit from the same attention lavished on the mains.